MUSEO
NACIONAL DEL PRADO
Cue
disappointment. If you are visiting one of "The world's
greatest...." something-or-other the build up so often leads to
let down. Or does that just apply to old cynics like me? Sometimes
it's almost as if I'm determined to find fault. As if.
Does
the exception really prove the rule? Nonsense. If the 'greatest'
label is repeatedly applied by credible sources then there will be
some authenticity to the claim. It's up to the individual to seek out
their truth for themselves.
The
Prado is regularly hailed as one of the world's top art galleries,
even if it only has space to display a fraction of the vast
collection. It is a very large and imposing building, both in terms
of architecture (albeit more internally than on the outside) and the
myriad steps needed to cover the floors of it's warren of rooms. The
walls are beautifully lit (it was rare to find viewing difficult due
to reflections) and there are plenty of benches for the weary to
ponder on.
As
ever there is a limit to how much beauty, prowess and meaning an
individual can absorb in one day and I make no pretence to having
viewed every room, or given close examination to each item in those
we went to. I apply my own eccentric eclecticism, being drawn to the
images which make a connection with my own thoughts and imagining,
which strike a chord of recognition or inspire a story in my head.
Although I was presented with a compelling example of the value of
technical mastery, it is not really my 'thing'. I have no visual
artistic ability and am as baffled by the technique of an amateur as
I am by that of a great artist. If this sounds perilously close to
saying "I know what I like" then so be it.
So,
a few days further on, which are the paintings which have stayed
strong in my memory, the butterflies amongst the moths?
Rubens
was the first to hit home. If the name means anything to most people
then it's in association with the portrayal of women even now
referred to as Rubenesque. Or, more truly, 'realistic'. An antidote
to the regular portrayal of, and commentary on, women in our mass
media (yes Oscars ceremony, I'm looking at you....). Of course such
figures formed only a small proportion of his work, hung in two huge
rooms, and there were many arresting compositions to admire. But the
two which meant most to me did portray full bodied women. Diana andCallisto
fascinates on many levels. The basis, as with many of his
compositions, derives from classical mythology, but made powerfully
human. Shame, embarrassment and reluctance pour from Callisto's
frame. My fascination strayed from that key element and moved to the
left of the picture. Why is there a dog hanging from the branch of a
tree? Why are the jaws and one paw of another canine thrusting in
from the left border? Some Googling might reveal the answers, but it
is the curiosity it raises in the first place that excites.
I
forget the name of the other Rubens. Again it had a classical basis,
a man leering in at a woman. There was nothing particular to catch
my attention, except that a contemporary artist had set up his easel
alongside to attempt to replicate the image. He was obviously
skilled for in most respects it appeared to be an accurate copy.
Except for the face of the woman. Maybe he had more work to do
there, but I didn't get that impression. He just didn't possess the
technique required to produce the level of animation and emotion that
was so (comparatively) obvious in the original. A lesson in the good
and the great?
A
surprise next. Passing a room of British artists one portrait
demanded me to come closer. Why did I feel that the woman pictured
had to be Scottish? The painting was indeed by Henry Raeburn. I've
seen much of his output in Edinburgh galleries and although I've
admired a few there has never been one that grabbed at me the way
this lady did. The face conveyed a sharp intelligence, her clothing
and background done in impressionistic style to take nothing away
from her keen look. I like to think she was as remarkable a spirit
as Raeburn shows her.
There
were, naturally, roomfuls of Goya. Armed with next to no knowledge
of the painter I let my eyes decide. In amongst the portraits of
self important royals and courtiers one man stood out through his
world-weariness. Once a liberal-minded Minister of Grace and Justice
(que?) the work had some similarities to the Raeburn in highlighting
the face above all other aspects, but with some elements of symbolism
incorporated. The pose and expression suggest an ongoing battle
against the forces of conservatism, a high minded desk warrior.
Further
on, side by side, the most immediately recognisable of all Goya
images. The two Majas. A young woman reclined on a couch, arms
behind her head. In one she is nude, in the other (painted later)
she is fully clothed. Stare at them for long enough and the real
contrasts begin to emerge. Other than her state of dress I found two
significant differences - the framing of the 'shot' (to think of it
in photographic terms), and her facial expressions. The nude is
slightly more distant, her smile calm and confident. She knows you
are looking at her and doesn't care. Literally comfortable in her
own skin. Whereas the other is closer, you are in the room with her,
the smile is more inviting, coquettish. It is by far the more
sexually suggestive image of the two.
One
more thing. The toes of the nude Maja. Oh, those toes! They looked
so real that I wanted to pull them.
Two
highlights remain, one sought out, the other stumbled upon.
Hieronymus Bosch is one of those names I know of without really
knowing why. Visions of hell was all I could recall. Seeing the
reality of his work made me ask, was this man really alive in the
fifteenth century? Despite the religious subject matter the images
seem more likely to originate from Dali or Terry Gilliam than the
late medieval period. There is genuine surrealism in there and I
could have spent hours on each painting if I'd had the time. In the
same room were some lovely works by Pieter Brueghel whom Bosch
obviously inspired. Again the characteristics look far more modern
that would seem feasible.
Beginning
to tire after three hours on the hoof I'd got to the point where
anything that was able to attract me had to very special indeed. If
you look at this - you may wonder why this image would do so. But no photo can do it
justice. This is a big painting, perhaps four or five metres high.
I read the description of the event portrayed, and the background to
the commissioning of the work, and marvelled even more. In a room of
huge pictures this one stood out as truth in the way that only art
can convey sometimes. I will be compelled to find out more about the
historical episode represented. It's strange where knowledge
emanates from at times.