I've been in Copenhagen for just a little over 24 hours. Today was a beautifully sunny, albeit cold, day, and we walked miles, taking in sights, sounds, smells. Not long in which to form an impression of a place, let alone the prevailing culture. But.
One of the first sights to greet me in the airport yesterday was this
A proud message to convey to visitors, even if it is only a Carlsberg ad (and I'm no great fan of lager). It's certainly a prize the Danes win regularly so there must be something to it. But surely someone can't suggest to have understood the reasons why in one day? Of course not, but I do feel I've already picked up a few clues, so here are some observations based on first impressions....
The first thing you notice are the bikes. Hundreds upon hundreds of the things. Stacked everywhere, coming towards you on every street. And that's a huge positive. And it's not just the numbers that matter, but the bikes and riders themselves.
This is a city geared towards bike travel. There are cycle lanes all over the place, the drivers drive with the expectation that there will be riders inside them. All the time. So the drivers drive more carefully, more considerately. Which makes bike riding a much safer means of transport than it is in UK cities, and also benefits pedestrians too. This feels a very safe city, not so much in terms of crime (although more on that theme later), but as a place to walk around. The traffic is less aggressive, more disciplined, less competitive. Make a note of that last word.
There's a virtuous circle in operation here. With so many people using bikes the number of cars in the city centre is greatly reduced. Those who do drive have less traffic to deal with, but have to take more care, and drive more slowly, because of the priority given to cyclists and pedestrians. Their own stress levels are reduced. And fewer cars means cleaner air to the benefit of all (but especially the cyclists - I haven't seen a single smog mask today). One up to Copenhagen.
I did mention that the bikes themselves make a contribution towards this culture. What you don't see are many mountain bikes or racers. The vast majority are of the sit up and beg variety, which might be considered old fashioned in the UK, but make for the perfect city commuter. Most have some form of carrying attachment, either a basket on the front or carrier at the rear, to render them suitable for shopping or a briefcase, plus a plethora of child seats behind the rider. There are many trikes, with the dual wheels at the front to support a container of platform. The postman uses one. I've seen a guy with three small kids in his, another transporting a double bass, and a woman with a small dog and large bunch of flowers. These are entirely practical means of everyday transport, with no hint of competitiveness or oneupmanship. You see the odd customised paintjob, some roughly hand-painted, and a couple had artificial flowers curled around the frame. But the wonder is why so few have strong identifying markings. It must be a nightmare picking your plain bike out from the hordes of others in the racks!
One final observation on the bikes themselves. I've seen many without any padlocks, the rider fully expecting to return and find his or her trusty steed where it was left. It may not be a coincidence that I've hardly seen any police as yet and only heard one siren.
The final element of the two wheeled observations lies with the riders. As with the bikes the people on them are prosaic. There are few helmets and even less lycra. People cycle in their street clothes. Riding, for them, is as natural a part of getting around as walking down the street or taking the bus. Any element of this being a 'special' activity has been removed. And there's few signs of riders getting competitive.
My other observations are more minor in nature, but I do think the keys to contentment lie in an accumulation of small details. There seem to be far fewer people, young or old, walking the streets looking at or talking into their mobiles. Which means more people looking where they're going, being considerate to others, and less stressed at trying to multitask their lives. OK, I only have one day of evidence for this so maybe I've been lucky so far, but even the busiest streets here do have a far more relaxed atmosphere than their UK equivalents.
There haven't been many shouty children either. Most appear well behaved, happier in themselves than those we are used to. I've never been a parent, but my wife has and she commented on the parents we saw. That they seem to finding their parenting role far more natural than is often the case at home. That they seemed to be more relaxed in the parenting role and thus the children have a more balanced view of their position in the world. That parenting needn't be a competitive activity....
While the main shopping streets have their share of tackiness there does not seem to be quite the same emphasis on brands that we have sadly become used to. And, for a European capital, there is less evidence of the intrusions of the grim American chains like McDonalds and Burger King. Funnily enough I haven't seen much sign of obesity either. Maybe it's down to all that cycling.
One final thought. From perhaps the most unlikely source. The Royal Guards. We saw them standing guard at the royal palace, and later heard a group of them march past led by a fife and drum band. Much like their British counterparts standing outside Queenie's place they have silly outfits on. The same daft furry hats and uniforms that make them look as if they've just fallen out of a Victorian toybox. But there were a couple of telling differences.
The soldiers on guard duty looked just that bit more relaxed. They took it seriously enough to be photogenic (which is surely their primary role?), but it was good to see a couple of them having a chat as they marched along in their positions. Humans, not robots. Maybe they don't feel they have anything to prove?
The wee band was the clincher for me. They marched in step, as soldiers do, they looked the part. But the tune? None of this bombastic nonsense we're used to, but something a bit jollier, perhaps a Danish folk song? There was an underlying sense of fun about the performance. Maybe, lacking a recent imperial past, the Danes have learned not to take themselves too seriously?
We should be so happy....
