From one capital city of hills to another. But Lisbon has some city centre slopes of a steepness to make even an Edinburgh resident blanch. It also has some wonderful architecture, magnificent squares and a long and fascinating history, so the two have much in common.
When we first visited, four years ago, we returned impressed by the friendliness of the people and the relatively unspoiled character of the place. For a big European capital city it had done well to resist the blight of commonality that the likes of McDonald's and Starbucks impose upon our streets, with the resulting sensation that you could be anywhere. Lisbon had character, charm, individuality. And it was cheap too.
Portugal only rid itself of the deadening weight of fascist rule about forty years ago, but that political fresh start seems to have been of benefit. They have implemented one of the most enlightened, and successful, drugs policies in the world, indicating that they may be a country which the rest of us can learn from in some respects. But it is also country which is being changed by the desire to raise the standard of living. With a greater emphasis on tourism being one facet.
We got to our hotel, settled in, and went for a wander, quickly recalling the general layout and some of the places we had visited last time. It didn't take long to feel at home in that respect. Much is as it was. But there have been big changes, and the most obvious sign of these was a new arrival on the streets, in what we swiftly gathered was huge numbers.
Tuk-tuks. The three wheeled motorised rickshaws you'd more usually associate with India and Thailand. They were everywhere. At first glimpse they look like a charming addition, and there are some stunning paint jobs on show. But once you've seen a couple of dozen or so in quick succession it hits you that this is a sign of just how much Lisbon has changed since we were last here. On our first full day we took in a walking tour to sample local food and drink. I asked our guide about the tuk-tuks, wondering if my memory was faulty, and there had been some last time. Her response was surprisingly vehement. They had first appeared three years ago and had since become an - her word - infestation. And this from someone working in the tourist industry.
And that's what it's on it's way to becoming, an industry like any other. The changes to the buildings and streets aren't great yet, but there were a few more of those American food chain places in evidence than before. And a lot more people, but not always the infrastructure to cope with them. the locals are, by and large, still lovely, friendly people. But you can see signs of some of them getting a bit pissed off with the influx, much like Edinburgh in August. We took a 15 tram out to Belem to see the attractions there, and it was as jam packed as any London tube train. Armpit territory. Sardines (appropriately enough). Squeezed up against us tourists were people who had jobs and appointments to get to, relatives to visit, good works to perform (maybe). This great influx of the ignorant hampers them in their daily routines, and the novelty is wearing off. The visitors might bring money, but there are a lot of negatives too.
On the plus side (?) the city is starting to think more like a tourist destination. The Lisbon Story Centre didn't exist four years ago, and now provides a great way to find out more about the background to your surroundings when you visit. But there's a lot to do too, if it really is to end up as a modern holiday centre. It's not in the least disabled-friendly, and vegetarians don't get many options.
There's only one end to this story and that's an increase in blandness, in homogenity, in changing from a city that welcomes tourists into a tourist city - and the two are definitely not the same. The topography of Lisbon is such that it could never entirely lose it's character. But if we were to return in another four years I wonder how many of the small local businesses will still exist in the city centre? Will the locals shed their charm to become like so many of their counterparts in London and Paris? And will tuk-tuks rule the world, will they be charging even more than the €50 per hour they do now. Lisbon is still a cheap capital to visit. But that's changing. I just hope it isn't too painful a transition for the Lisboners.
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